To me the first name that came up was of Coco Chanel, but also thinking of Elsa Schiaparelli, Diana van Furstenberg, Stella McCartney, Victoria Beckham and Maria Katrantzou. Writing these names even more names are coming up, like Sarah Burton and Maria Grazia Chiuri.
When Coco Chanel started to get known in Paris, she was called "that seamstress" by contemporary couturier Paul Poirot. For him it was a way to offend her. Male couturiers presented themselves as fashion gods and felt they were the creative talents and not the female competitors, they were just 'seamstresses'. But the female designers emphasised that only a woman could dress the female body as best as possible and much better than a man.
The gemeentemuseum asked three questions to prepare this exhibition:
- Do female designers design differently for women than their male colleagues?
- What is the significance of being a woman for their creations?
- What is their vision on fashion?
Hands, because many of them care strongly about the technical design process and shop te material by hand around the female body.
Heart because they work from feelings and attach great importance to mobility, physicality and comfortable fit.
And head because many female designers do use clothes as a medium to express their (social) opinions.
The exhibition starts with dresses from the 18th century until the pink pussy hats found their way from the street to the catwalk with Angela Missoni.
I made clothes for the new woman. She could move and live naturally in my clothes.
Coco Chanel
Elsa Schiaparelli: I feel that clothes have to be architectural, that the body must never be forgotten and it must be used the way a frame is used in a building. She was the first designer to present themed collections, like the 'Circus collection' in 1938. Her creativity ability and conceptual way of thinking made her stand out.
"Buy less, choose well, make it last." Vivienne Westwoord said, "I am a fashion designer and activitist. The need to live in harmony with the planet is a matter of life and death." At the moment she fights for a better environment and a more sustainable fashion industry.
We should all be feminist.
Maria Grazia Chiuri for Dior
"I like the idea of women buying clothes and feel proud, satisfied, comfortable and powerful in them. To wear them and get on with their lives. " Phoebe Philo
Sarah Burton: It's about dressing women and how a piece makes them feel. As soon as you put a McQueen jacket on, you stand differently because it has a waist and it has a shoulder and it makes you feel empowered. It's great if you can do that for women.
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| Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen |
Mary Quant (1967): "Fashion as we knew it, it is over: people wear now exactly what they feel like wearing.
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| Daisy Doll by Mary Quant - Mini skirts for ever! |
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| The revolutionary wrap dress by Diane von Furstenberg |
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| The power of a good coat |
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| Black and white, never out of style |
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| Black and white shoe |
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| Mary Katrantzou |
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| Iris van Herpen |
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| Iris van Herpen - Ludi Naturae |
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| Pink Pussy Hats |
It is inspiring so I really suggest you will visit it soon too because it is only on display until 24 March 2019. Let me know what you think about it!
For more information visit gemeentemuseum.nl
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